Sex in God's Own Country

(Published in The Economic Times on Jan 14, 2010)

The recent arrest of a local politician for alleged immoral trafficking has catapulted into one of the most talked-about events in Kerala. The person, Rajmohan Unnithan, a member of All India Congress Committee (AICC), has been suspended from his party and barred from travelling outside Kerala by a local court since his arrest in the night of December 20.

Sounds pretty normal. What is not normal is the way this small-time Malayalam film actor was taken into police custody and charged with such a serious offence.

According to various media reports, local activists of DYFI, the youth wing of ruling CPI-M, and the People’s Democratic Party of Abdul Nasser Madani, broke into a house at Manjeri in Malappuram district to find Unnithan was with a woman. They accused the two grown-ups of immoral activity, took their photographs and held public hearing for hours before handling them over to the police.

Unnithan and his 32-year-old female companion, a former Congress Sewa Dal member, were subjected to medical tests and had to spend a night in the police station before being granted bail by the Manjeri first class judicial magistrate the next day.

All this for being in the same house?!

Since that day, Unnithan has been using all his time, energy and oratory skills to explain he was set up and that he had no sexual relationship with the woman in question.

Most commentators, bloggers and public at large are debating what the two grown-ups were doing in the house and trying to guess what comment from this otherwise small fry in politics may have led to such a trap.

(Unnithan is known for his sharp and often nasty remarks. For example, when Congress invited K Karunakaran to rejoin the party, this is how he explained why the former chief minister’s son Muraleedharan was not invited: “Vada comes free with masala dosa in Udupi hotels, you don’t need to order separately.”)

His own party, Congress, has ordered a probe into the incident.

Very few people in the state have come out to say the real issue was about violation of privacy and that consensual sex has nothing to do with illegal trafficking. One prominent person who did it, writer Paul Zacharia, has allegedly been roughed up by DYFI activists for doing so.

That’s God’s Own Country. A paradox. It leaves the rest of the country far behind in social indicators such as literacy, healthcare and social awareness, yet Kerala remains one of the most backward places in man-woman relationship.

At the beautiful Varkala beach in south Kerala, Indians are not allowed to bathe in the main beach. It’s kept exclusively for foreigners. There’s no need to argue with the security guards or local police. Just watching how sensitive sun-bathing foreigners are to local stares is good enough.

At Kovalam’s famed Hawah Beach too, it’s hard to spot brown skin in a sea of bare-bodied sunbathers.

That may sound like conservative, hinterland India. But Kerala is progressive. It believes in equality. It voted the first democratically elected Communist government into power. It has implemented land reforms. Here, girl children are taken care of, they are well-educated, confident and most of them work for a living, many outside the state.

Yet, here, even young husbands and wives are reluctant to share the same seat in local buses and college boys and girls seem reluctant to mingle with each other outside campuses. It’s next to impossible to find a local woman in a bar or see a woman travel alone after sunset.

Despite all its progressive claims and the ability of its people to adapt to different conditions around the world — it’s said that there are more Malayalis outside the state than within — Kerala remains a male-dominated society that’s caught in a moral backwardness. Only exceptions could be among the youth in cities like Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram.

Here, only man is human. He errs. He drinks and robs, and sometimes kills. But woman is beyond all that. She’s a goddess, or furniture, or a machine. She’s incapable of action. She can’t sin. She can’t live.

Here’s the most Catholic society in the world. It lives in a false morality that stands between man and woman, increasing their distance and distrust, and turning people into perverts. There are numerous sex scandals and cases of gang-rapes. Yet, everybody is moral policing. Sex is a sin in the God’s Own Country.